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Сообщение от MikePilot
малейшая «трушность» (вот не зря я это в кавычки беру ) у джинс возможно только если они произведены в штатах из штатовской же тряпки всё остальное идеально описывается анекдотом про обеспокоенного владельца китайской машины оригинальностью запчастей в магазине
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НЕ ОБОБЩАЙТЕ - И НЕ ОБОБЩЕНЫ БУДЕТЕ!
любая безапелляционность - особенно в такой "лирической" области сферы лёгкой промышленности - грозит в итоге выставить себя демагогом!
хочу всем "общественным экспертам" - стоящих на крайних противоположных "платформах" - представить в качестве примера (и повода немножко задуматься) отзыв одного американского денимохэда об английском шедевре
ARCHIE TAPERED - одной из козырных моделей элитной линейки
"Ли Купер" COLLECTION (Англия) - фунтов под 300 (?) ценой
https://thedenimhound.com/denim-revi...apered-15-3oz/
[i]With the The Cooper Collection’s Archie Tapered 15.3 oz, one of the UK’s first denim brands, Lee Cooper, reminds us that denim was born Europe. Featuring a modern take on vintage details, these work wear inspired pants are definitely one of a kind.
I wanted to talk with the person behind the denim, the one responsible for the design. I was lucky enough to get in contact with Tilmann Wrobël, the Creative Director of The Cooper Collection. Through my correspondence with Tilmann, I was able to get the details about the Archie Tapered 15.3oz used in this review.
“Long before any company in America worked with denim – long before America even existed – there was a thriving market for denim in Europe. Back then denim was a real workwear cloth from Nîmes, hence jeans… look back further… with indigo of course; before then being appreciated in Japan, and before that in India and Bangladesh. Thinking about the fact that denim is not all-American, or all about ranches – was central to creating The Cooper Collection. Of course there will be people who look at what we’ve done with The Cooper Collection and say that it is just a marketing exercise, but I think that idea will be dispelled when you look at the detail…” Tilmann Wrobël, The Cooper Collection Document.
Fabric: 15.3oz, sanforized selvedge denim, shuttle loom woven at an undisclosed mill in Italy (not Candiani). 100% long-fiber cotton blend Rope-dyed with indigo. A very high tension yarn used in this tightly woven right hand twill. This is a very interesting denim, I don’t have anything quite like it in my collection. I have an urge to call it “British Denim,” although that would be incorrect and probably confusing. There is a small and tightly wound slub yarns found in the warp causing a faint vertical pattern. This denim has a soft, flat hand that creases very easily, which is very promising for honeycomb development. This denim feels a little inky and sticky, like it is full of moisture, another confusing statement for “Dry Denim” lol. Very little shrinkage or stretch. This denim crocks a lot and has A green-cast weft and a warp that I feel has a slight red hue to the indigo.
the red-casts have always been a sign of american / southeeuropean denim culture. For this range we have selected a more green-casted fabric, which to us corresponds better to the urban & british denim-flavor. Also the slightly softer hand-feel made us think about the very first british denim-products, way back from the early 1500’s, which contained often wool… ( warmer & softer )
04.05.2023, 20:28
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