Kari Voutilainen reserved a little surprise to the visitors of the Palace at the Baselworld fair. Indeed, he brought with him a Piece Unique of the GMR, which was specially created for Ekso Watches Gallery, the gallery - concept store dedicated to independent watchmaking founded by Ekaterina Sotnikova and located in Paris in the George V area.
So I couldn't resist the temptation to ask him to show me this exceptional watch which gave him the opportunity to demonstrate, once again, all his artistic skills in a high-level technical background.
GMR is the watch from Kari Voutilainen which combines a second time zone 24 hours display and the indication of the power reserve. This Piece Unique uses one of the twelve movements which were created in the context of the GMR. The second time is displayed with a hand inside the peripheral zone of the second hand sub-dial while the power reserve indication is on the top of the dial.
By observing that dial, I find again very many aesthetic details that characterize the style of Kari Voutilainen:
- the applied figures including the famous "IV", a breach to the rule that states that 4 has to be writen IIII in Roman numerals on the dials of watches to preserve their balance,
- the gold hands whose ring segment is made of blued steel,
- the balanced case with a diameter of 39mm and its famous teardrop-shaped lugs,
- the multiple red details (including the hands of the complications) that are part of the dial design of the GMR.
In the context of the Piece Unique, the case features a lid on which Kari Voutilainen and his team expressed their artistic skills. The decoration is spectacular from both the points of view of the addressed topic and of the control of the execution. Featuring a mermaid and a merman, the lid doesn't only offer a dreamlike and dynamic representation but also features the harmonious cohabitation of two crafts: engraving (I might almost say sculpture given the three-dimensional rendering of the result! ) and grand feu enamelling.
Both crafts overlap, mix and so create the sensation that the mermaid and the jellyfishes are actually under water. This translucent enamel allows light to go through what is very appreciable when the lid is opened to enjoy the beauty of the movement.
A maxim is written on the inside side of the lid: "We will return to where we come from". The whole point of such words is that they can have several interpretations and meanings from the classic memento mori ... to our desire to come back to our roots in a world that is losing everyday its references. So the future owner of the watch is free to understand the maxim according to his own perception. One thing is obvious: Kari Voutilainen always comes back to the watchmaking fundamentals, the movements with low frequency and requiring balance wheels with large diameters. This inspiration which comes from the chronometric movements of the past is evidenced by the superb caliber of the GMR. The proper diameter of the movement (30mm) is adapted to the 39mm case. The balance wheel and its own bridge are the main point of attraction but every detail reflects the extreme care of the finishes. The 50-hour power reserve finally gives a good reason to wind the movement and this daily ritual is part of the charm and the emotion provided by the watch.
A movement from Kari Voutilainen is indeed primarily a true high end homage to the watchmaking tradition and is enhanced by exceptional finishes. But it is also a nice and simple movement to use and operate. In the context of the GMR, you simply need to handle the crown and the hand of second time moves with one-hour steps without disturbing the behaviour of the movement and its precision.
Finally, the blued silver dial provides an additional last argument, if one was needed, about the seductive power of this Piece Unique. Thanks to its ideal size for a dress and elegant watch, the balance of the dial and the subtle touches of color, the GMR created for Ekso Watches Gallery provides the same pleasure on the wrist than with the observation of its decoration.
12.04.2016, 21:50
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